“The heavens declare the glory of God;
and the firmament sheweth his handywork.”
(Psalm, 19:1)
On a warm day in spring I began digging into the mulch pile to spread in my raised beds, and there lay Frank (Frankenstein). Frank had little offshoots, a good root system and looked as if he had been waiting to be transplanted to a spot where he bloom. He seemed to have no idea that he was suppose to be dead. Frank wanted to grow!
What a great reminder!
| Frank in his new home |
How to propagate roses:
Before you can do any planting, you'll need to learn how to get the right cutting. The best time to do this is right after the flowers begin to fade, (probably early Fall). Once you've planned the timing right, follow these steps for taking cuttings and rooting roses:
- Start by cutting a 6-inch long stem that has three or four leaf clusters (you want this stem to be about the thickness of a pencil). Every spot that holds a leaf is a growing point where branches or roots can form. Once you've made the cut, shave or whittle the end of the stem into a point. Remove all the leaves except one set at the top.
- Next, dip the point into a rooting hormone and shake off the excess.
- Stick the stem into a clean 4-inch pot that's been rinsed with a mild bleach solution and filled with perlite or damp builder's sand. Push it in as far as you can, then put the entire pot into a zip-top plastic bag to make a mini greenhouse. Place your plant in a shaded area—not full sun where it'll be too hot.
- Be patient as the roots form. “You will see leaf growth quickly, but that’s the plant faking you out,” says Scanniello. “It’s not rooting yet so be patient and leave it alone.”
An alternate method of rooting a new rose is to put your cutting in builder’s sand inside a gallon-sized zip-top plastic bag. “That makes it easier to see the roots, "says Scanniello. Just make sure to set it down upright so that the plant isn’t getting squashed inside the bag.
Hope Wirta
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